Sunday, August 14, 2011

Summer of Silence

This is the first summer I can remember that has left me more stressed, more anxious and more exhausted than before it started. Our site has led and accommodated between 20 and 50 volunteers each month from May through August, including four study abroad group programs. With the Project Coordinator Intern's angelic assistance, I have managed all individual volunteer and intern projects and group projects – the miscommunications, the questions, the complaints and the positive feedback from the local project partners, volunteers, interns and faculty leaders. I also approved funding applications and distributed the funds for all these projects (5 projects in May, 12 in June, 17 in July; 9 in August). It was a lot of administrative work and a lot more of putting out fires.

Of the 10 country sites our international nongovernmental organization operates within, the Ghana site was expected to have the most action this summer. After a few months of the Ghana Site Director nagging the President about getting more help on-site, our request was granted in May. Our site grew from four full-time staff members (two local, two foreign) to also include a local temporary Project Coordinator Intern (May-September), a foreign Program Advisor from our marketing department (May-July) and a foreign Volunteer Coordinator (one-year contract). At the end of June, two managers from different departments in our U.S. headquarters office visited for two weeks. It was the first occasion anyone in a managerial position came to our site since it opened in July 2009, a long absence even if the staff hadn’t been stifling complaints about the way things were being managed on-site.

Since mid-May at least once per week there have been personal and professional conflicts among the staff that have resulted in shouting matches, tears and even premeditated public shaming in front of community partners. Somehow I always found myself in the middle, mediating. I’ve been tempted to add to my job description in my resume, "mitigated temper tantrums, nervous breakdowns and verbal attacks between parties."

My blog has been quiet this summer. I assure readers it is not out of laziness. It is because I am tired.

I am emotionally depleted from the 15-hour work days and being on-call 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, approving a volunteer’s ideas for her project money donation at 8 p.m. on a Friday night, being called by a host mother at 10:15 p.m. asking if her “daughter” was at our volunteer house because she hadn’t come home yet and then being woken up at 6:50 a.m. the next morning to a volunteer’s call about a question regarding her host family. It is the nature of the job, yes, but that on top of being the site's unofficial peace-keeper? For project partners, volunteers and staff too? My exhaustion stems from always needing to be available, practical, approachable for others (customers and colleagues) even outside of the regular 8 to 5 work hours. It is one of my personal and professional strengths, but these days and in this particular environment it is wearing me down.

I am also tired because I have so many things to say – about how disheartening it is that young people all over the world come to "the country Africa" to Make A Difference and then get frustrated when they learn that they can’t make a difference in two weeks or even two months because their definition of "help" is different than Ghanaians' definition. (Not all, but most volunteers have this viewpoint - especially the summer batches.) I have more to say about how I don’t like how difficult it is for me to find joy in being a foreigner, always standing out. About how even though I feel safe in Ghana, two lost souls with a gun, a machete and a craving for power shook my core in early June. I hate that I jump and look around when I hear people running now.

A more deep-seeded reason for my silence is because I love Ghana, her people and her culture, and I'm immensely grateful for the experiences I’ve been given. My silence is because I don’t feel like my attitude reflects these feelings right now. I've hardened, I've become jaded and cynical (realistically optimistic?). I don't like it. I hope it doesn't last.

My work contract was from July 2010 to July 2011. In April, before summer bombarded, I made the decision to stay onboard through August 2011 to help with the busy season. After my initial shock of being home in a land of infinite excess and waste and unnatural lights and vanity and refined sugar aromas and mammoth-sized cars and Walmart and who knows what else will toss me off my rocker, I hope I will find peace in the aftermath of this summer.

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

I Specialize in Damage Control

I work for an international nongovernmental organization (INGO) that brings foreigners (about 80% Americans) to Ghana, India, Thailand, Brazil, Peru, Mexico, Belize, Costa Rica, Nepal and Ecuador to serve communities in the health, community development and education sectors while living with host families and learning about the country's culture. I am the Project Coordinator for our site in Cape Coast, Ghana. Besides locating and cultivating partnerships with Ghanaians and their nongovernmental organizations (NGOs) and developing work plans for foreign volunteers and interns, I also end up doing a lot of the volunteer coordinating. Additionally, I update our media outlets and teach a biweekly cross-cultural training seminar to the volunteers. I live with my boss. I work on weekends, sometimes. I live in a compound connected to our volunteer house. I'm "on call" for the volunteers 24 hours a day, seven days a week. What I do is not a job - it is a lifestyle.

During the summer my job requires a shift in focus. One, I become a glorified camp counselor - a shepherd, if you will. Don't get me wrong - we get some cool volunteers - I even consider a few my friends. But when I'm working with them, I am a shepherd. A "bosslady." My boss Kirsty identifies herself as the Mama of the volunteers and me as the fun older sister. I'm okay with that.

Two, I orchestrate the preparations for the projects for both the volunteers and their project partners. This is my second summer working for this INGO. Last June, there were five volunteers on-site. This June? Twenty-three volunteers and interns are working at 12 different projects. As for July, 10 of the June participants will be staying  through the month, overlapping with 18 new arrivals who will be spread out on nine projects, not to mention a group of 15 university students on five projects. Where do I come in? I'm responsible for checking in with everyone throughout their programs to make sure both the volunteers and their partners are satisfied (mending the inevitable communication problems). I am also managing the project money for all the partners and each of their volunteers.

And three, I specialize in Damage Control. Project and Volunteer Damage Control.

One of my favorite damage control stories is from this May. It involves a volunteer who served as an assistant teacher for an elementary school (called "primary school" in Ghana). The Ghana education system allows canes to be used by the teachers to discipline the students. The foreign volunteers who spend time in the schools are deeply disturbed by this, especially when students are caned for reasons such as getting an answer wrong, not leaving enough space between each letter when they write, or for jumping out of their seat with excitement when answering a question. Caning is so ingrained in Ghanaian culture that even when this particular school's headmaster instructed the teachers to cease the caning, the students' parents complained.

When volunteers sign up for the education projects, we warn them before their arrival that caning is the culture's preferred method of punishment. They still have difficulty witnessing it. One of the girl volunteers asked to be caned by a teacher to see how it felt. Others stepped out of the classroom when they felt uncomfortable or upset about it. Until this May, no one had tried to "fix it."

During our organization's orientation and through the cross-cultural training courses I teach, we encourage our volunteers to know their place within the country they are serving while also maintaining a positive outlook on their roles within their NGOs' projects. We explain at length that it is neither acceptable nor worthwhile to try to change an aspect of a culture by imposing one's own culture on theirs. Some then may think, Well, then why should we volunteer at all? Westernized solutions for X-country's problems will never work. Moreover, it can possibly offend the locals. Attempting to impose one's culture on another's is culturally insensitive, arrogent, naïve and distinctly "American." (Sorry to say it.) However, say for instance a volunteer wants to teach community members about the importance of recycling rubbish. There's no harm in that, as it is a solution suitable for a Ghanaian problem.

However, *Bob was determined to change the minds of the 11 teachers at his school during his three-week program. When he told me he was going to try to "fix things," I got nervous. Then he admitted he knew he couldn't banish caning from Ghana's education system, but he hoped to at least influence the teachers at his school as much as possible during his three-week program. During his first few days at the school he asked for a meeting with the 11 teachers and headmaster and provided examples of less painful methods of punishment. Wall sits was his main suggestion. From what I had gathered from my sporadic informal check-ins with him throughout his first week, Bob was going to continue to educate the teachers on alternative ways to discipline the students and hope for the best. 

One afternoon Bob came to our volunteer house after working at the school. A university group was staying at our volunteer house, and many of them were hanging out in the dining room. Bob had been in Ghana maybe a week before the group arrived. He strode into the house, put his backpack on the floor, pulled out a broken cane and triumphantly raised it over his head. He announced to the room, beaming, "Ten more to go!"

I was mortified.

I asked him to come over to where I was sitting. I asked what he had done and why he did it. I reminded him (informed him?) that he had taken and broken someone else's property and such an action could have severed the relationship between him and the school and perhaps the school and our organization. Then came the excuses: "Well, it wasn't that good of a cane anyway," and "...the teacher can just get a new one." I told him what he had done had gone against our organization's ideals, against everything our staff had told the volunteers about keeping our own culture to ourselves.

What Bob did made me think of all the examples in America's history of self-imposing, both recent and in the textbooks. For some reason, this situation triggered a major disappointment in my home country. I don't know when this hostility toward the U.S. started exactly, and I'm not sure if it's just the U.S. who is guilty of this, but something deep inside me scoffs at people's impulse to "help." What qualifies as "help?" What qualifies as an "improvement?" Every culture, every person has a different perception of what it means to "help" and to "improve." In order for change to occur within a society, the society must be ready for change. Going back to the recycling initiative in Ghana, Ghanaians are ready for an improvement on their waste management system. They want help, they want guidance on how to improve their environment. That's why projects focusing on recycling in Ghana have been working.

Eventually Bob seemed to understand what he did was wrong and the potential ramifications of his actions. He apologized and said he wouldn't break anymore canes.

There are definitely some drawbacks to having a job that becomes your lifestyle, but many many positives too. On a scale from 1 to "nooo way, I can't believe that" in terms of damage control tales, this job has delighted me with quite the range. And in hindsight, long after the initial drama, who doesn't love a good story?